Many Happy Returns

This familiar holiday greeting also effectively communicates what we often experience, namely, the return of a favorite wine after a hiatus. There are too many reasons to explain as to why a wine might not be on our shelves from one vintage to the next. However, when it's an outstanding wine from a favorite winery in Tuscany, we simply celebrate it's return.

San Felice is that favorite winery. Agricola San Felice is recognized as an innovative estate, partly because of its ability to spot trends before they develop and partly because of its intense research and experimentation. At the same time, however, its production style accentuates the uniqueness and typical character of its territory by retaining a close attachment to tradition.

We've long enjoyed their Chianti's and Rosso's. For their Brunello, the Campogiovanni vineyards are situated on the southern side of Montalcino, where the unique combination of microclimate and soil composition create the ideal ripening conditions for sangiovese. Campogiovanni is a traditional Brunello, conditioned for an average of three years in Slavonian oak barrels and 500-liter tonneaux, and then for 12 months in the bottle. It stands out for its finesse and longevity.

The 2010 San Felice Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni is something you should consider adding to your collection. 96 points from James Suckling: "Perfect aromas to this red with licorice, stone, peach pit, plum, leather and iron. Full body, fine, silky tannins that support a deep, rich fruit concentration showing black fruit, Tuscan dust and oyster shell. Needs four or five years to soften but an amazing finish."

95 points from Wine Spectator. "Black cherry, black currant, cedar and tobacco flavors highlight this firm, dense red. This has the fruit, structure and harmony to develop, with a juicy finish and a lingering wild herb and mineral aftertaste. Best from 2018 through 2033."

While our weekly feature is the 750ml size; this is also available in the 1.5 liter Magnum size.

Introducing...

Over the last few weeks, many of the wholesalers that we buy from hosted portfolio tastings. Our staff attended many of these events, so that we can better understand what we're currently carrying, and so that we can consider new products. Here's a look at a few of our newest additions:

Hewitson Baby Bush Mourvedre

Taking cuttings from the 1853 planting of the Hewitson Old Garden vineyard, the oldest Mourvèdre vines on Earth, Hewitson grew, then crafted a wine from Baby Bush vines that takes a new look at an old treasure.

The 2012 Baby Bush is a wonderful expression of this variety. The aromas display classic Mourvèdre richness, ripeness and rusticity. The dark, brambly, blueberry aromas are matched with the sage, earth and undergrowth. These aromas carry right through the palate which delivers a rich, velvety mouth feel, backed by very soft and fully ripe tannins. The structure, balance and youthful poise of 2012 Baby Bush Mourvèdre ensures the wine is extremely enjoyable now. It will also reward with time in the cellar.

Rated 94 points by James Suckling. Only $17.49 in the Bottle Club®.

Michter’s Barrel Strength Rye Whiskey

Michter's is known for producing limited edition whiskies that are highly collectible, and highly enjoyable. That's what we have with this cask strength version of its rye whiskey. It is a stronger version of their US*1 Single Barrel Rye, which rings in at 84.8 proof.

The barrel entry proof for this was 103 proof, a strength that Michter’s believes will yield a richer, smoother product than a higher entry proof would. After aging, the barrel proof for the majority of barrels of this first release ranged between 108 proof to 110.8 proof. The single highest proof barrel reached a strength of 113 proof. Available for $74.99.

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello 2010

Fattoria dei Barbi is among a prestigious group of estates that has played an integral part in writing the history of Italian wine. The Colombini family, one of region’s most influential families, founded the estate in 1790. The family has owned land in Montalcino since 1352. The estate is currently owned and managed by the 20th generation heir, Stefano Cinelli Colombini.

"Fattoria dei Barbi's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino starts with a tightly wound personality that begins to unravel slowly, one delicate layer at a time. As it does, you become aware of dried fruit, cigar box, crushed mineral, plum, tar and cola. The wine puts on a beautiful display. I also loved the mouthfeel of this beautiful wine: It is tonic, tight and brimming with energy. Well-integrated oak notes give the wine a spot of softness and velvety spice. This is one beautiful Sangiovese." Wine Advocate, 94 points. Available only in Woodbridge (but we can transfer a bottle to Lawrenceville, upon request), for $54.99.

Six Saints Caribbean Rum

The devout islanders of Grenada have been quietly hand crafting rum for over 200 years. Named after the Caribbean isle’s six saintly parishes, we distill divine natural rum, the way it has always been.

Using only the most hallowed ingredients, the rum is matured in once used bourbon barrels and presented at 41.7% ABV, the perfect sipping strength. You might say Six Saints is a truly immaculate conception!

Golden and light-bodied, this small-batch rum mixes honey and oaky vanilla notes with fresh apples, pears and pineapple. The slow-building alcohol heat makes this an ideal rum for tropical drinks. Only $32.99 in the Bottle Club®.

Tasting with the Stars

Having the opportunity to taste great wines is one of the good things about this job. Our wholesale suppliers offer large-scale portfolio tastings annually, and other trade groups have tastings throughout the year. Few other industries have professional development opportunities that are as tasty.

It is, of course, necessary to distinguish "tasting" from "drinking". If you're a professional, attending a tasting event to improve your own palate while learning more about your portfolio, then "tasting", spitting out the wine, is what's required. Really, when there are a few dozen participating wineries, each offering samples of two or three different wines, "drinking" would render you unable to stand before too long, let alone be able to evaluate the nuances of the wines.

Benvenuto Brunello

That's the background to my experience at the Benvenuto Brunello tasting event in New York City on January 27. Hosted by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, the Italian trade group for Brunello producers, the tasting was pegged to the release of the 2009 vintage Brunello and 2012 Rosso. And with very few exceptions, that's what was available for tasting among the 50 or so participating wineries. And, no, that is not a complaint!

Amy Ezrin, about to pour Sassetti

There was something of a mix of vintages and styles for the Brunello's. Some 2008's were also available for tasting, as well as some Riserva-level wines from 2004. Quite a few participating wineries had notes stating that they were "looking for an importer," so nearly everyone there was shopping for something!

I was prepared for a long day of tasting, although the crowds presented a challenge at times. The event was held at Gotham Hall, which is at Broadway and 36th Street. While it didn't impact the tasting, ESPN was setting up their music stage in the street right in front of the building, and their TV studio was one block south, also right in the middle of Broadway.Since the game is in New Jersey, some Super Bowl-related activities had to be in New York. I guess.

Banfi

Entering the ballroom, you found the wineries were arranged more-or-less alphabetically, which gave Banfi the first table on the right. Since we carry about a dozen different Banfi products, including their Grappa, they were on my to-taste list. I was fortunate enough to have visited the Banfi winery in Tuscany, and tasted pretty much everything there. Here, I sampled the Brunello's, and they certainly started me off the right way.

At Joe Canal's, we carry Banfi wines starting at under $10. Especially in this weather, those everyday red wines will help thaw you out.

My strategy for events like this is to first taste wines that we already carry. I want to be as conversant as possible about our brands, and sometimes speaking with the rep will give me some added insights. It can mean circling the room a few times, working my way through the crowds, but it's worth the effort.

Paul Costilla, Folio Wines

Still on my first pass, I next encountered our rep from Folio wines. Paul tasted me through his wines, and also talked up another Italian wine, Dal Forno Romano, in addition to their other wines. The Frescobaldi Giocondo Brunello was one of my top wines of the day.

This is as good a place as any to talk briefly about the process by which many products get to the shelves at Joe Canal's. Our team of buyers evaluates the products before approving them for sale at the stores. The team works exclusively for Joe Canal's in Lawrenceville and Woodbridge, so they also know the similarities and differences of the shoppers at the two stores. Maybe my palate is just aligned really well with theirs, or maybe they're good at their jobs, but with one exception, my favorite wines of the day were wines that we already carried. And the one that we didn't carry is one of the wineries looking for an importer.

I didn't have the opportunity to get pictures of the fruit & cheese trays that the organizers had set in the middle of the tasting area. The area was always crowded when I went past, and I never saw the displays looking anything other than picked-over. But you needed a bit of a palate-cleanser as you went through the tasting. Most wineries did have small bits of bread at their tables, and many offered olive oil samples as well.

The contest was very close, but my favorite wine of the day was the Sassetti Livio Pertimali Brunello, 2008, pictured above with our sales rep, Amy Ezrin. It's in stock in Lawrenceville and Woodbridge for only $49.96 in the Bottle Club®. Wine Spectator rated it 94 points, saying, "Aromatic, suave and silky, boasting aromas and flavors of flowers, cherry, strawberry and leather, all boosted by bright acidity and firm, well-integrated tannins. Refined and long, with a lingering finish of mineral and spice. Best from 2016 through 2035. 700 cases imported." It was drinking beautifully at the event, and now I have to run over to the store and grab a bottle for myself. Considering that this wine hasn't scored under 90 points since about 1995, the Sassetti team knows how to make a great wine.

While this event was limited to people in the trade, there are similar events throughout the year that are open to the public. Some are listed on web sites like Local Wine Events, others are in Wine Spectator, and you can search the web as well. Being able to taste so many different wines is a great way to improve and expand your palate, while having a great time. And it might be on a smaller scale, but don't forget that Joe Canal's in Lawrenceville and Woodbridge offer wine tastings nearly every Friday and Saturday. Our web site has a specific page devoted to our weekend wine tastings, and we also have special guest tastings during the year. For details about these and our other tastings, please consult our main Events page.

By and large, the Rosso's were drinking well. The Brunello's, beyond the few that were my clear favorites, showed a lot of promise, and are definitely worth buying, provided you can cellar them, or aerate/decant for drinking soon. But now I need to find a big plate of pasta.

Beat The Wine Shortage!

Yesterday, there was a news story about an impending wine shortage. We posted a link on our Facebook pages, and you can easily do a web search for the item. If the facts are correct, then we have a suggestion on a good building block for your "shortage stash". And since the suggestion comes from Brandon Bartfalvi, Senior Wine Manager at our Lawrenceville store, you can count on it being an outstanding choice.

 Brandon, in front of the Fine Wine case.

"Definitely start with the 2008 La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino. You get a rich and generous red, offering flavors of dark fruit, coffee, chocolate and spice with a lengthy finish.  Those deep, dark flavors are inviting and concentrated and the supple tannins add to the finesse of this approachable Brunello.  Decant and enjoy now, or drink over the next several years."

La Rasina is located on the fine southeastern slope, or morning side, of Montalcino in the Brunello DOCG area. Rolling hills with roses climbing over the old walls of the main house create an atmosphere of loving attention in this small family run property. Separate buildings on the estate have been restored for Agri-tourism. There are fewer and fewer of them, but this estate is still a true Montalcino born, family-run estate.

La Rasina was founded in the early 1970′s by the grandfather of the Mantengoli family, Santi. Later managed by Vasco, his son, and now by Marco, his grandson, the estate shows the dedication and excellence of an endeavor kept in the hands of one hardworking family over many years. Recent recognition given to Marco Mantengoli at La Rasina included top ratings and awards at literally every wine review published on Brunello. 

Regularly priced at $51.99, the 2008 La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino is available at Joe Canal's in Lawrenceville and Woodbridge at the Bottle Club price of only $40.99!