On occasion, Joe Canal’s staff members are able to go on trips to
meet the producers of the items that we sell. Whether we travel to the
great wine regions, or any other location, the trips are educational,
great for team-building, and, of course, they’re fun.
Brandon Bartfalvi, Senior Wine Manager at our Lawrenceville store, recently visited
Oregon's wine country on just such a trip with other Joe Canal's team
members. Here's his report:
OREGON – REVISITED
The travels continue for those of us at Joe Canal's. My most recent trip took me to Oregon for some much-needed wine sampling. We have visited Oregon in the past (about six years ago), so we wanted to return to see how things have evolved. We went to a few places that we visited before and we had the chance to explore some new places. So enough for introductions, let's jump into the meat of the trip.
GRAN MORAINE WINERYTHE WINERY
Jackson Family Estates searches for dynamic wine growing regions throughout the world and this is one of their first ventures into Oregon. The estate was purchased in 2013 and was formerly known as Solena Estate Winery. Jackson Family Estates purchased the winery and vineyards and renamed the winery "Gran Moraine". This 220 acre property in the Yamhill-Carlton region only produces two wines at this time, with talks of expansion in the near future.
OUR STORY:
We made it to Oregon during a beautiful stretch of weather (75+ degrees everyday and lots of sun), and this just helped enhance our moods as we made the drive to this new winery. Jackson Family Estates purchased the Solena Estate Winery, hired a new management team and renamed the winery as Gran Moraine. Essentially, we felt like we were arriving at a brand new winery. As we drove up the driveway, the winery looked fresh and new. We learned later that it already existed at the time of purchase, but it has been updated and refreshed. We arrived a little early, so we took in the stunning landscape of the area and relaxed in the sun.
At the appropriate time, we met our tour guide and he took us for a short, educational tour of the winery (which was in the middle of crush). After walking outside in the warm sun, we definitely needed to cool off...with a glass of Pinot Noir. The winery only offers two wines at this time: A regular bottling and a reserve bottling from the amazing 2012 vintage. We sampled the first wine and it revealed a richness and ripeness I wasn't expecting. The wine had a lush and round mouthfeel that seems to be very indicative of the vintage. The Reserve bottling was one to savor and will be better in a few years. It was wrapped up in its youthfulness and truly needs time to evolve.
Great wines led to great conversation and we came to learn that Jackson Family Estates has its eye on Oregon. La Crema has a Willamette offering that is supposed to showcase the smooth house style with a sense of place, the Oregon terroir. Keep an eye out!!
It was a great experience to see this new winery firsthand, before the hype starts!
KING ESTATETHE WINERY
King Estate, celebrating 20 years of Oregon winemaking in 2011, is located southwest of Eugene, and produces Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and limited amounts of Chardonnay. Founded in 1991 by the King family, King Estate is committed to producing Oregon wines of exceptional quality using organic & sustainable farming methods, meticulous fruit selection, impeccable winemaking practices and judicious blending. The beautiful 1,033 acre estate is certified organic, and includes 470 acres of organic vineyards, as well as 30 acres of fruits, vegetables, and flowers. The Estate is crowned by the charming, European-style winery, where the winemaking process is also certified organic.
OUR STORY
What a beautiful estate! The ride up the driveway, the view of the estate, the vineyards surrounding you... wonderful!! As we pull up to the winery you see how truly beautiful the estate really is! It was a two hour drive from our previous stop, so it felt good to get out and stretch our legs a bit. And it was a spectacular day on top of all of that!
We were greeted as we entered the winery by the very friendly staff and our tour guide was there in moments to start our tour. Our guide suggested we that we had to start the tour in the right frame of mind so we were given a glass of Sparkling Pinot Gris. Absolutely delicious way to start the tour. Crisp, light and very interesting, and it went down a little too easily.
We wanted to take advantage of the perfect weather, so we toured the grounds. The view was dynamic and the grounds were extremely well-maintained. Our young guide showed us to the back patio area where he told us the winery hosts quite a few weddings. After seeing the view and the grounds, I definitely understand the appeal (and if I ever get married, just maybe I know a place hint hint). We continued our tour of the estate, and were amazed at the attention to detail that went into the design of the entire property. We meandered up the stairs to a small copse of fruit trees that the winery planted in a small, secluded area (where we learned the staff loves to visit and relax). As we walked across the grass and under the small trees we learned we were directly above the barrel room. Yes, the trees, grass and seclusion were directly above the barrel aging room. We also learned that the fruit from the trees is used in the on-site restaurant.
We discussed the winery and its organic processes used on the estate vineyards (but they add sulfites during winemaking process so they are not organic wines). King Estate is the largest production Oregon winery (with the Pinot Gris leading the production), but it's still small compared to California wineries. I was particularly attracted to the organic and sustainable processes they have dedicated to their almost 2000 acres. They want to preserve what nature provides and try to sustain that culture and relationship. So on to the rest of the tour.... We now had the opportunity to go inside the winery and winemaking facilities and see the what and how of the process, from grape to barrel to bottle. I won't go into the details of everything we saw but you can always ask me about the specifics in person.
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| King Estate |
After our tour through the winemaking facilities and barrel room, we made our way to the towers of the winery. We went up several flights of stairs and saw that every floor had wine racks filled with wines that were being aged, from small experimental wines to old vintages of the wines the wine produced over the years. Every floor had several hundred bottles and each floor had a different collection of wines (with explanations). We finally made it to the top floor, and this is where the owner keeps the wines that friends and family have gifted him over the years, and he often comes up here and grabs a bottle to drink at the restaurant below. Very interesting, very interesting!
It was a thorough and fun tour with a great guide but we were thirsty and he saw it so he led us to a private tasting area. This was a no-holds-barred tasting and he opened up almost all of the bottlings that the winery produces (which is quite a lot, including some special bottlings. I won't list everything that we sampled (I simply don't remember all of them and I forgot to take a pic of all of the bottles). The wines showed really well and there were no disappointments in the entire sampling. The Pinot Gris was exactly what I expected: crisp, clean and with a lot of up-front fruit. The Viognier was well done and showed the more delicate side of the grape that I think most California wineries miss (most are too ripe or manipulated). This one was beautifully crafted, along with the well-balanced Chardonnay. Another stand-out wine was the Paradox Pinot Gris, which is a Pinot Gris aged on its lees and in new oak barrels. The bright fruit flavors are there, but a round, toasty quality stands out on the finish. A very unique style that I think is worth trying. Another major standout was the Old School Block Pinot Noir, which was youthful and absolutely tasty. The name is much more than just a name; it's an approach. The vineyard that the grapes are sourced from is handled in an old school manner (small, sustainable vineyard with minimal mechanical intervention; horses are still used) and the winemaking philosophy is the same. Minimal intervention using native yeast and foot-treaded punch downs, and the wine is unfined and unfiltered. A dark Pinot, offering flavors of tea, dark cherry, leather and spice with a great backbone and a definite cellar selection.
We tasted quite a few wines and it was hard to pick highlights because many of the wines deserve attention. Please take a chance to visit Oregon and taste the wines (many are only available there) and take a second to eat at their restaurant.
REX HILL/ A TO Z WINERIESTHE WINERIES
A to Z Wineworks was started in 2002 by four friends, Oregon wine industry veterans Deb Hatcher (Eyrie), Bill Hatcher (Domaine Drouhin Oregon), Sam Tannahill (Archery Summit) and Cheryl Francis (Chehalem). The two couples worked in the Hatcher's kitchen to build the original blend, which was honored by Food & Wine magazine as the Best American Pinot Noir under $20. Recognition for their A to Z wines, with dependable quality and great value, continued and production grew.
In 2006, the group welcomed another Oregon wine veteran, Michael Davies, as winemaker, and partnered with Gregg Popovich (Coach of the San Antonio Spurs) to buy Rex Hill Vineyards and Winery (established in 1982). A to Z has worked with more than 100 vineyards across the state, always offering assistance for sustainability certification that the group expects to be achieved within three years of partnering. Today, A to Z has two viticulturists on staff, and uses biodynamic principles to farm all owned or long-leased vineyards.
Rex Hill Vineyards was founded in 1982 by Paul Hart and Jan Jacobsen. Winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash joined the team in 1988 and was made president in 1993. She set high standards for quality, further developed the single vineyard wines and made wine that is designed to be affordable. Sam Tannahill is now the winemaker at Rex Hill Winery and is consistently producing award winning wines.
After spending 2 years working in Burgundy and receiveing a degree in winemaking there, Tannahill entered the wine industry in the United States by working with Ted Lemon at Littorai. He departed for Yamhill County, Oregon and Archery Summit. After 7 years there, he decided to form A to Z Wineworks with his wife, Cheryl Francis, and Bill and Deb Hatcher. Sam and Cheryl also own Francis Tannahill, a new winery and biodynamic vineyard founded in 2001.
Rex Hill vineyards have participated in Oregon’s sustainability movement from its outset and has ties to the LIVE organization that are deep and strong. They are moving toward certification by the international biodynamic certifier, Demeter, for the acres they farm biodynamically.
OUR STORY
This was a very interesting place to visit. First, it is right off a major roadway and seemed out of place, but once you drove up to the winery, you realized it was just right. Also, I didn't realize that A to Z purchased Rex Hill and they now share a winery. We arrived a little early, so we parked the car and took in the surroundings and it really is a beautiful countryside.
We waited until the winery opened, then went in to introduce ourselves, and were greeted with smiling faces. The employees here really enjoyed their jobs and it was evident. After a few minutes, we met our tour guide/educator and started our stroll around the grounds and the winery itself. I knew I was going to like our guide as soon as I met him; he was gregarious and fun. He had a way of explaining things that kept your attention and he made you feel like a friend (and he had some really funny stories and a wicked sense of humor). We made our way outdoors to look at the vineyards closest to the winery. On the way out we saw the organic gardens that the winery planted. We were also made aware of the boulders in the vineyards that were brought down to the area thousands of years ago from an ancient glacier. This helped explain the interesting soil composition of the vineyards in the area. Well, enough with that … let's talk about us!
We went into the vineyards and tasted the Muscat grapes (they kept this one row of Muscat grapes just for tours), as our guide explained the principles the winery follows: sustainability and organic farming. After discussing the change in philosophy of the winery (changing to the organic model and the challenges it presented at first, but the end results were worth the risk), we went into the winery to see the inner workings.
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| Fermentation tank at Rex Hill |
In and of itself, the winery is very interesting. It started as a fruit and nut drying facility that was eventually converted into a winery, many years after the drying facility closed. The winery kept many of the old features of the drying facility, such as the tracks and small tunnels while expanding and updating the entire operation. We bumped into quite a few of the staff while we toured and they all had smiles on their faces and a pep in their step (they seemed really happy to be at work). We made our way around the showroom and went to the winemaking area and we found that they had quite a few interns on hand from around the world (we couldn't stay at the guest house because it was crush and the guest house was being occupied by some of the interns). It's great to see that Oregon is being recognized internationally and other wine growing regions are sending people to Oregon for hands on training.
I won't go in to details of the equipment and barrels and such because you want to know the highlights and fun stories. During the tour, our guide showed us the concrete egg. Yes, a giant concrete egg that was being used to age some Chardonnay. This egg is only used for some experimental winemaking, is expensive to buy, and can only hold a small amount of wine. What makes the egg interesting is the function of the shape of the egg. If you ever take a real egg and examine the insides you will find that the yolk is always in the middle of the egg no matter how you turn it. The yolk never settles but always remains in the center and this is due to the shape and the earth's rotation. Well, this concept is used in winemaking, because the lees in the wine will remain concentrated in the middle of the concrete egg and get naturally stirred. This natural stirring of lees gives the wine roundness and textural depth. Ok enough technical talk...lets get down to the nitty-gritty: tasting.
We tasted through the entire portfolio and were not disappointed in any of the offerings. The Rose is gentle and light with bright red berries and a lingering finish. The A to Z Pinot Gris was zippy, fruit-forward and a great value and the same applied to the delicious Chardonnay. A step up was the Rex Hill Chardonnay, which was rich, complex and well-balanced (one of the finest Chards that I have tasted in a while). We then jumped to the Pinot Noirs, and the range was extraordinary. The A to Z Pinot Noir revealed red berry notes and was light on its feet with good acidity. A step up was the Rex Hill Pinot Noir, which had more body and some darker fruit notes, with a spice filled finish. The Rex Hill Jacob Hart Vineyard Pinot Noir was exceptional and comes from a specific vineyard named after the original owners. This complex wine offers dark fruit and floral notes wrapped around a core of minerals and spice. Delish! We also had the chance to sample two wines named after the owners of the winery: William Hatcher Pinot Noir and Francis Tannahill. Both were very distinct and alluring. The Hatcher Pinot Noir was a fuller, riper style that one would liken to a Cali Pinot Noir, while the Tannahill Pinot Noir is the more experimental wine that is always different and exciting.
Oh, and I forgot to mention the Rock & Hammer wines. These are made specifically for Gregg Popovich and are only poured at his events and fundraisers. Apparently, Coach Pop is very interested in the wine business, and that's why he bought in. We did get a chance to see the bottles and cases but could not taste the wines. Hopefully, he will read this blog and take pity and send me a bottle (fingers crossed).
FIRESTEED WINERYTHE WINERY
Firesteed Cellars is located in the heart of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, in the Eola Hills region. Through long-term contracts, Firesteed sources grapes from all the major viticultural appellations in Oregon including the Willamette Valley, the Umpqua Valley, the Rogue Valley of western Oregon and the Walla Walla Valley in eastern Oregon, along with the 90 acres of vineyards that surround the winery. In 2006, Firesteed began to develop the 200 acre Erratic Oaks vineyard, located just 6 miles west of Rickreall. Firesteed Cellars is currently the third largest winery in Oregon, and Oregon’s largest producer of Pinot Noir. The wines of Firesteed Cellars display distinctive varietal character, and consistently ‘over deliver’ in terms of value for the price. In winemaking, Firesteed strives to have the fruit character be the “star” of the wines. Firesteed seeks to produce wines that are balanced and elegant with aging potential for the reds.
OUR STORY
This is a true revisiting for two of us on the trip, since we were here six years ago. From the outside, the winery looks unchanged, but, as we came to find out, things have evolved over the years.
We arrived at the winery early so we parked our car and admired the scenery for a bit. At our scheduled time, we made our way to the winery to meet our guide. Unfortunately, because of crush, we could not tour the facility, but we understood (and it does get crazy). Our guide showed us the new wine tasting room. When we were here previously, there was no room, just had wine bar set up that you could walk up to and taste. The room was quite and sealed off from the winery proper. We took a quick look around the barrel room while our guide explained the philosophy of the winery and updated us on the changes since our last visit. I believe last time we were here the winery was leasing vineyards and sourcing grapes, but now they have expanded and purchased the 200 acre Erratic Oaks Vineyard nearby, and they still lease the 90 acres surrounding the winery.
With the addition of the new vineyards, the winery has increased production and are offering more wines, which we had the opportunity to taste. We had a chance to taste their Pinot Gris, which was a very good value, offering stone fruit flavors and good acidity. Their Riesling was very nice, offering flavors of citrus, apple and pear, with a vibrant finish. We tasted the Oregon Pinot Noir next, and it was light in body, full of bright red fruits and a smooth finish. The Willamette Valley offering had more complexity, and revealed more spice notes. The most exciting in the lineup were the Citation Pinot Noirs from vintages 2003 and 2004. Both were excellent offerings, but I leaned more toward the 2003 vintage. Both wines showed very well and it was hard to pick a favorite, but most importantly, this winery put their best foot forward and produced two very nice, age-worthy Pinot Noirs.
DOMAINE DROUHINTHE WINERY
This Oregon estate was established in the late 1980s, but the winemaking roots were planted in Burgundy a century earlier, when Joseph Drouhin moved from Chablis to Beaune, and in 1880 founded Maison Joseph Drouhin. He was succeeded by his son, the brilliant Maurice Drouhin, who dedicated his life to making fine wine. In 1957, Robert Drouhin became the third generation to run the business. He first "discovered” Oregon on a 1961 visit, and then again during the 1979 and '80 blind tastings in Paris and Burgundy (the latter of which Robert organized) that put Oregon wines on the world map. Robert recognized that it was Oregon, more so than California, whose soils and climate could unlock the complexities and potential of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the United States.
In 1986, Robert's daughter, Véronique, came to Oregon after achieving a masters diploma in enology. She worked that harvest with three families, the Letts (Eyrie Vineyard), the Casteels (Bethel Heights) and the Adelsheims (Adelsheim Vineyards). That first impression was profound, and helped to form the bond between the Drouhins and some of the founding families of Oregon wine. It can be fairly said that Oregon's deep sense of community was a powerful magnet.
In 1987, Robert Drouhin was invited to participate in the first International Pinot Noir Celebration, and on that trip, he decided to purchase land in the Dundee Hills. Where there had only been Christmas trees and wheat, the Drouhin's began planting their first vineyards in Oregon. At the same time, Robert nominated Véronique to be the newly christened DDO winemaker, and her brother, Philippe Drouhin, took responsibility for viticulture. In 1988, DDO produced its first vintage, from purchased grapes, and in 1989 built the landmark, four-story gravity flow winery.
OUR STORY
What an amazing view and such a gorgeous winery! The slow ride up the driveway gives you an opportunity to take it all in. Surrounded by vineyards, this winery is a star in Oregon and a highlight of many people's tours. I was excited to see this winery, since I have had the wines numerous times, but never had the opportunity to visit the winery. As we walked to the building, we had to take a second and look at the surroundings. When they chose this site I'm not sure what was more compelling: the view or the vineyard potential.
We went into the winery and it was jamming. Apparently, this is THE place to be. We went to the bar and were greeted by our guide. This time, we tasted first, then went for a tour of the facilities. What was most intresting was that the winery poured their own offerings, plus two from their Burgundy estates. It was very nice to be able to contrast the different offerings and to see how the Oregon wines stack up to the Burgundies. We started with the Chardonnay Arthur, I believe, which was unbelievably delicious. It offered apple and hazelnut flavors with an intensity that I was not expecting. Ripe and pure with great balance and fresh acidity. I was happy to start with this wine. We moved on to the regular Pinot Noir, which was anything but regular. Fresh red fruit, good acidity and nice body. A pleasure to sip! We also got to taste the Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru from Burgundy, and this wine was very nice. More body than the Oregon offering, with a ripeness that I wasn't expecting. I do want to try this again, when I have an opportunity. We finished the tasting segment with the Cuvee Laurene, which was very youthful, but the components of its greatness were there. This is something I would lay down for a few years before I even considered drinking it. A fresh, savory wine, but this needed to breathe (maybe I will grab a bottle for the future).
After our tasting, we started a short tour of the facilities. The Drouhin family was in town during our visit and we saw Veronique Boss-Drouhin talking to the assistant winemaker while we toured the site. Veronique is in charge of winemaking at the Oregon property and the winery in Burgundy, France. Unfortunately she was very busy so we couldn't meet with her, but it was a pleasure to see her at work. Our guide gave us a quick tour of the winemaking area, but it was quite busy, so we didn't spend much time because we would just get in the way.
We did spend some time on the deck overlooking the grounds and vineyard, and I could easily have spent the day sipping wine and watching the sun set. This was a very nice way to wrap up the trip. Striking scenery, awesome wine and good company!
SIDE NOTES
On the way back to the hotel we made quick stops at Sokol Blosser and Argyle wineries. We just stopped in the tasting rooms and couldn't do tours but the stops were well worth it. I enjoy the wines from Sokol Blosser, but I never had their dessert wine before and I'm glad I got to taste it: rich, decadent and lip-smackingly good.
Argyle has amazing offerings and I always enjoy the Nuthouse Chardonnay. That did not disappoint, but I was reminded how much I love the Argyle Brut. Rich, toasty, and a great value among sparkling wines. This may be my sparkler for the holidays! Do yourself a favor and pick some up soon!
I also want to bring to your attention a nice restaurant that we found in Salem, Oregon: Table Five 08. Very interesting cocktail menu (my fav being TONIGHT THE MONKEY DIES) and a nice small plate menu. We came back another night for a very nice dinner (they had a great menu) and I left full and happy. I just wish this restaurant was in NJ.
If you are ever in Eugene, Oregon please search out the restaurant BELLY. Great food, great drinks and a very attentive staff (and very beautiful... I think I fell in love).
