Fork and Gobble It: Tuscan Adventures, Part 2

There are few times when, on the first night in a strange bed, I wake up refreshed from a solid night's sleep. Okay, so maybe dinner and three bottles of wine between two people had something to do with it. The best part was realizing it wasn't simply a dream.

Sunday morning, and our first full day of the trip, was beautiful and open with opportunity. We did not have any firm plans until Monday and exploring some of the neighboring villages was definitely in order. We had a rented Renault Twingo to get around, so after a light breakfast and a couple of espressos, we set out on the road. Driving in this part of the world is unique is several ways. As you go from village to village you understand that for ancient reasons of security, each one is located on a hilltop. If you're ascending your probably headed into town, descending, probably out. This is helpful in keeping yourself on the right road when you don't know exactly where you're going. Each village is an eyeful of beautiful landscape in every direction.


As you drive on to the next village on the highway or autostrada, it also becomes apparent that the speed limits, passing zones, and other motor vehicle laws, are merely suggestions to the Italians. While we never witnessed an accident, the bravado of passing motorists made us wonder how this was possible.

We planned to visit two small towns nearby, first Casale d'Elsa and then Volterra. As we walked about in Casale d'Elsa the first thing that came to mind was ... lunch. After all, this is Italy. We looked as we walked for a good place to eat and located a comfortable and trendy looking pizzeria with a veranda and a nice view. As it turned out, the pizza and the accompanying wine (the house white) were not quite up to the view. Mythbusters you are on alert, not all food in Italy is awesome.

After the mystic pizza (how can Italians screw up pizza?) we drove on to the village of Volterra. We parked the car and walked past a restaurant with an outdoor bacci court where groups of elderly men were talking about important events of the day. As we strolled an enoteca (wine/bar/shop) caught our collective eyes. La Vena di Vino was an eyeful as we walked through the door. A small space with a counter that offered cured meats and cheeses, espresso, and wine, and a very small seating area decorated in a hodgepodge of newspaper articles, half a Volkswagen Beetle hung upside down, and mostly womens' brassieres. Lots of 'em. Hanging all over the ceiling and autographed to boot.

Despite my encouragement, my wife would not make a contribution to the décor. We tasted two separate flights of wine instead.

I did not take notes on the tasting, but I was impressed enough with a Rosso di Montepulciano from Fattoria del Cerro that we bought a bottle to consume that week.

We left La Vena di Vino and walked around for a while more, then drove home, it now being late in the afternoon. We would dine at a local restaurant in the next town over from where we were staying.

Casalta in Strove is a small hotel, or something that Americans might consider a Bed and Breakfast. There is a restaurant there that has a local following and it is well deserved. The chef Lazzaro is a local hero creating locally derived and creatively prepared dishes. My main course was a delicious squab dish consisting of roasted bird and tortellini stuffed with squab.

An espresso finished the evening. We were tired and well fed. Many days remained ahead to explore.