Toni Carver's Trip to Spain - Part 3

I was pleased jet lag woke me especially early today. The path in front of our hotel is part of the history-steeped Camino de Santiago (Road of St. James) across northern Spain stretching about 470 miles. We observed the pilgrims on their journey walking, cycling, on horseback and donkey riding through the picturesque countryside and historic townscapes, unchanged in many parts from the days of the earliest pilgrims. The reasons for those making the pilgrimage are various but seeing the visible dedication for their cause was moving and spiritual.

The beautiful weather continues for our tours today of Bodegas Ondarre and Bodegas Olarra. We met with Eugenio Garcia del Moral who guides the growers in all aspects: irrigation, plantings, clippings, height of vines, etc. He actually created his own computer program that is interactive with the weather to help the vineyards that are too distant for him to visit frequently. His passion for each vineyards' importance and success was infectious. You could understand why the wines he is involved with are of such great quality.

Before we continue at the wineries we were treated to a guided tour of the historical city of Viana. Ancient churches, cobble stone streets, a view that goes forever, a fortress wall that dates back centuries, and knobs to hold grates over the windows of local shops during the running of the bulls all make this a picturesque city. After our tour, accompanied by tapas, local beer and carajillo (coffee and brandy), we started the brief drive to the wineries.

Bodegas Olarra, established in 1973, is massive. Their barrel room holds 26,000 barrels!! They are nestled in an “egg crate” like dome that seems to go on forever. I immediately recognized many labels that we carry at the store, some of which I have sampled previously and been very pleased with their balance and palate. My favorite here was the Cerro Anon Reserve with its inky color and dried plum, tobacco, and anise palate. This is a wine that can stand on its own, but also pairs well with a variety of foods.

Bodegas Ondarre, established in 1986, is mostly done in new French and American oak. The Ondarre Reserve was my overall favorite of the trip. This mostly tempranillo blend is aged for 16 months in oak that adds complexity. It has earthy spice, good structure and a long dark fruit finish. Everything I am looking for in a wine and under $12 makes this a must buy!!!

We were then invited to enjoy lunch at Ondarre. They prepared a never ending supply of lamb over an open fire pit fueled by grape vine clippings with a 3 story chimney; succulent, juicy and paired to perfection with the Olarra and Ondarre wines. After our fulfilling lunch we head to the hotel for some R&R. Our group meets up later for a chance to walk around Logrono and to visit the Tapas bar area in the Calle Laurel region. The tapas bars are each unique “mini bars” located one after the other down a few streets in the town. Each bar has its own specialty dish and we ate as many as our stomachs could take.