Fork and Gobble it: Scratch (and Peck) Turkey Chili

Fall + Football Season x Cold Weather (rainy/damp) = Chili

I love chili. I have made it with lots of different kinds of meats, from beef and pork and venison, to chicken and turkey. Lately we go back and forth between the beef version and the turkey version. I alternate in the interest of health. No question turkey is leaner, much leaner, but it also has flavor. One will never replace the other, but just as I couldn't live on a steady diet of Porterhouse steaks, I make adjustments in other dishes as well.

I will not get into the debate of what is real chili. That would be a whole other discussion which might never be resolved. The version I make is based on what I like, so yes it contains beans. It also mixes textures with half ground meat and half cubes, contains bell peppers and onions, and tomatoes. I grind and cube whatever meat I use myself, make my own chili powder, and take other steps to make a killer (if unorthodox) bowl of red.

The recipe here is the same one I use for beef and can be shortcut in many ways, so you can immerse yourself in this process as deeply as your ambition and time will allow. It yields about 6 quarts which can feed 12 very hungry people or 20 regular folks. I will be happy to help downsize it, just leave a comment below with your contact info and I'll get back to you.

Let's get going, this takes a while...

Your Shopping List
1 lb dried black beans
6 - 8 large Ancho chilies
16 dried Chipotle chilies
4 TBSP whole cumin seed
4 pounds turkey thighs (bone-in, skin on)
3 - 4 pounds turkey breast (½ breast bone-in, skin on if available)
Kosher Salt
2 large Spanish onions (about 1 ½ to 2 lbs.) ~ diced large
4 large bell peppers of various colors ~ seeded and diced large
2 28 oz cans of diced tomatoes
*for garnish if you like ~ Sharp Cheddar Cheese and Sour Cream

First, take 1 lb of dried black beans, sort them for debris, and soak them in warm water. (You can opt for canned beans here and take the shortcut. I would use one 1 14 oz can + 1 28 oz can to equal 1 lb dry)

Next, prepare the chili powder (or use your favorite pre-ground). This is going to require a spice grinder. I use an inexpensive blade type coffee grinder.

I learned a long time ago that ground spices on the supermarket shelf can never compare to what is ground as it is needed. There is no way to preserve the freshness. I like mine assertive but not too hot because I don't assume everyone likes it as hot as me.

Take 8 whole Ancho chilies, and 15 chipotle chilies (dried, not in adobo) and toast them in a toaster oven, skillet, or regular oven. Toasting them intensifies their flavor and allows you to grind them into powder. Although they are dried, they still retain enough moisture to keep them leathery and impossible to grind. You will see them puff up when they get hot enough. Remove them from the heat about 30 seconds or so after they puff, fully taking care not to burn them. Set them aside to cool. Then, toast 4 tablespoons of whole cumin seeds. If you don't have a toaster oven, do this in a dry pan over a medium flame shaking them until they start to pop and become fragrant, then immediately remove them. Once the chilies are cool, break them apart to remove the stems and seeds. (If you are sensitive to capsaicin, you may want to wear rubber or latex gloves to do this.) Wash your hands well with soap and warm water afterward. Discard the stems and seeds and grind the chilies into powder in your spice grinder. I then grind the toasted cumin seeds and keep them separate. This usually yields more than enough chili powder. I like to control the amount of cumin I put in. Some store bought chili powders have cumin already mixed in which makes that impossible.

Drain the black beans, put them into a pot and cover them with cold water by at least 2 inches. They will about double in volume so make sure your pot is large enough. Bring them to a boil and the simmer them until they are tender, about an hour or so. Once they are tender simply shut off the flame and leave them in the pot.

While the beans are cooking, I prepare the meat. Turkey parts are cheaper and give me control as to how they are prepared. Ground turkey is more expensive but saves much time. That being said, I buy turkey thighs and bone them out to use for cubed meat. I reserve the bones in the freezer to save up for stock. Discard the skin. If you have the ability to grind your own meat, I recommend doing so. I prepare a more coarse grind than what is available in the supermarket, which I like better for chili. If not, you may opt to do all cubes, or buy ground.

Thighs have the most flavor and are very simple to bone out. There is only one large bone to remove. A half breast with the bone left in may prove difficult to find, so pick one of the options I listed above.

A recipe this size calls for a round dutch oven of at least 8 qt. capacity. I used a 13 ½ qt. pot. Pour in enough oil, I used olive but any cooking oil will do, to cover the bottom of the pot and get it hot. Sear off the cubes first, adding half at a time and working in batches. Crowding the pot will only keep it from staying hot enough to sear and the meat will just boil in its own juices. Season liberally with Kosher salt while the meat is browning. Remove the cubes from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Now brown the ground turkey. Once it is browned remove it from the pan and set aside. Add the onions first and cook them for about a minute or two, then add the bell peppers. Cook the vegetables over a medium high heat until they are soft and starting to brown. Lower the flame slightly and add back both cuts of meat to the pot. Season well with chili powder and ground cumin to your particular taste. I start with a minimum of 4 tablespoons of chili powder and 2 tablespoons of cumin. Cook those together for 2-3 minutes. Add the contents of both cans of tomatoes. Rinse both cans with a little cold water and add that to the pot. The consistency should be a little soupy. If it is necessary to thin it, take water from the pot of black beans. Over medium heat, bring the pot to a simmer and cook uncovered for about 1 ½ hours, stirring occasionally. After the first hour, drain the black beans, reserving the water, and add the beans to the pot. If the chili gets too dry and starts to stick, add a little bean water. Also at this point check for seasoning and if necessary add salt, chili powder or cumin. After about 90 minutes check the cubed thigh meat for tenderness.

This chili should be ready to rock. Serve it in crocks topped with grated sharp cheddar cheese and dollops of sour cream if you like.

Wines to pair with a full bodied and bold meal such as this present many possibilities. My first inclination would be a full bodied Languedoc wine such as the La Deveze Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2007. Its intense fruit and earthy notes will stand up to and compliment all the elements going on in this chili. An American alternative along the same lines would be the Arcadian Sleepy Hollow Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands 2006. Same idea here, but with a little less earthiness and a little more fruit. If you prefer the earthy elements, I recommend the Masante Dolcetto Langhe 2008 from the great Piedmonte producer Aldo Conterno.

Now go out and enjoy!

If you have any questions, or if you try this recipe, leave me a comment below and let me know how it turned out!