Winter has stalled. I can't recall a January with so many days of 50°F temps. I've taken advantage of the mild weather to get in some mid-winter grilling. After the bacchanal that was the holidays, I've been cooking a lot of fish. The challenge here is twofold. One, my wife was not a big fan of fish until she met me, so every time I introduce something new I have to make it so good she can't possibly look crossways at it. The other challenge is grilling the fish itself. I'm kind of a purist when it comes to grilling. I use a basic Weber Kettle and hardwood charcoal, nothing fancy. I've seen people have all sorts of trouble grilling fish, especially more delicate filets that are particularly difficult when they have the skin on them. But when you have the ability to do it well, you come away with a smoky, moist piece of fish with crisp skin that no one would turn their nose up at.
Tackling the grill issue is relatively simple once you figure out what really goes on when you put a piece of fish on a hot grill. What you don't want is for the fish to stick and then tear as you try to move it. For me it was a matter of getting the grill seasoned. That just comes from using it. Just like a cast iron skillet you need to develop a layer of carbon on the cooking surface that in a short period of time becomes more non-stick than any commercial substance. A few things I do to help the process along are 1)Make sure the grill is clean using a wire brush. 2) Have a rag or paper towel that has been lightly dipped in oil and quickly wipe the surface of the hot grill (careful!) just before putting the fish down on it. 3) Apply a little oil (or butter) to the surface of the fish prior to cooking. In the final analysis it is like riding a bike for the first time... you just have to do it.
A favorite preparation I make these days that is a big hit at home is Rainbow Trout stuffed with a compound butter of garlic and herbs. Good quality trout filets are fairly common in most good fish markets, as they are farm raised. I buy them fileted and boned as they are tedious to clean at home and I can't do it as well as what I can buy. I simply leave a couple of tablespoons of butter out on the counter to warm to room temperature. I add a little minced garlic and whatever fresh herbs I have on hand to it and mix it well. I spread this inside the trout filet like so...
This will baste the fish from the inside out, seasoning it and keeping it moist. I reserve just a little butter to smear on the skin side of the fish once I close it up. This helps keep it from sticking.
I place the filets on the hot grill and put the lid on. This acts as a damper and keeps the heat low and prevents flare ups that might occur as the butter melts. I cook the fish for about 2-3 minutes per side, and when it's done it looks like this:
Red Snapper is another fish that once you have the technique down, comes out great off the grill. Although it's true that Caribbean Reds are only in season in the late spring, there are varieties that come from foreign waters and when they are looking fresh and cheap, I don't resist.
Now Snapper is a fish that I will take the time to filet at home and maybe save some $$. If you feel comfortable doing so, I say go for it. As I pointed out in a blog about Bluefish, it can really save you some money if you have the skill. If not, then let the fishmonger do it for you.
After nearly 18 years working in restaurant kitchens and fileting hundreds of pounds of fish, I trust my own hands. This fish was so pristine that just a little olive oil, salt and pepper was all the dressing I gave it. Now if fish like this sticks it's gonna make for a messy presentation, but this is where the time spent seasoning the grill and learning (and messing a few filets up along the way) good technique really pays off.
Nice clean grill marks and a little browning make for an attractive looking plate. Patience and practice are also essential ingredients here.
So if the weather holds out I'll be playing around with a lot more presentations to see how far I can challenge my wife's palate. I like to grill squid and I'm wondering how that will fly.
On a completely unrelated wine note, Lambruscos are in again. Not Riunite or the like that swept the country in the '70s, but artisinal wines that are dry, food friendly, and really damn good. We now carry three from Cleto Chiarli, one of Italy's oldest producers of Lambrusco and I can readily attest that they are fantastic. Ask me and I'll happily direct you to them.
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