Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Upscale and Sophisticated

If you haven't tried some of the upscale Riesling's, you're missing out on an exceptional experience. new to our stores is the Pichler-Krutzler Riesling Pfaffenberg. This rated 94 points from Wine Advocate. Their review is below.

From “young” vines (of 40-45 years’ age) when compared with those of the small attached parcel of Gruner Veltliner, Pichler and Krutzler’s 2012 Riesling Pfaffenberg weighs-in at 12.5% alcohol despite not having been picked until October, 20 – several days after Loibenberg was brought at a full degree higher. There is fantastic clarity here allied to infectious juiciness. Pungent juniper berry and sage inflect fresh lime, apple, luscious honeydew and cassis, while a suffusion of crushed stone and smoky black tea serves for contrast with the wine’s effusive fruitiness. A veritably kaleidoscopic interplay ensues in the endlessly fascinating and refreshing finish of this exciting debut that should merit following through at least 2020.

Elisabeth Pichler and Erich Krutzler continue to hone their distinctive style as well as to freely and intuitively experiment, unencumbered by local habit or by the structure – however arguably useful – of the Vinea Wachau’s trio of wine categories. They carefully filter and critically consider any received opinions, even (or, dare I suggest, especially) those of Elisabeth’s famous father, F.X. (Tasting and trading observations and anecdotes with husbands and wives of both generations was among the highlights of my most recent Austrian travels.) Picking at this estate began already in late September, though Krutzler laughingly attributes that in part to his red-wine mentality which encompasses rigorous crop-dropping, in which he intends to be less aggressive in future. Erich Krutzler places emphasis on the relatively small berries and high skin-to-juice ratio of 2012 fruit in delivering energy, structure and sheer personality surpassing those exhibited in 2011, and he was not afraid to observe his norm of 24-30 hours’ pre-fermentative skin contact. Even as Pichler and Krutzler continue to build their vine surface via some extremely savvy and lucky site selections, their technical capabilities are being enhanced as well. New large casks are gradually being introduced, and beginning with vintage 2014, new equipment will permit movement of fruit as well as wine entirely by gravity and open-up a wider range of pressing options.

Only $29.99 in the Bottle Club®.

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